There are, perhaps surprisingly, only four main categories of hair type, something our hair transplant patients often don’t realise. They are type one: straight, type two: wavy, type three: curly, and type four: kinky hair.
Your hair type could further be classified as any of the above types in subcategories a, b or c. This influences everything from the styling products you use to the texture of your follicles and the treatments a hair restoration clinician might recommend if you experience hair loss.
For example, textured curls are more porous and naturally drier; coils are more fragile than straight hair; and oil-based products don’t sit easily on the shaft of straight hair, so they may be less effective.
Hair Types: Key Takeaways
- Hair falls into four categories, each with three subcategories, called types one to four, with subcategories a, b, and c.
- Each person will have hair that can be grouped as straight, wavy, curly, or kinky, depending on their natural curl pattern, texture, and thickness.
- The Hair Typing System we still use today was created by Andre Walker in 1990 and published in a book that explores the biological and physiological needs of each hair type and the impact of hair textures on optimal hair care.
Why Do Hair Types Matter?
Hair types aren’t solely about how hair looks but about the texture of the follicles, the types of products that will be most suitable, and the characteristics of natural hair.
This impacts a whole range of aspects of caring for your hair, including:
- The products you might use, such as oils, creams, water-based products, shampoos, conditioners, leave-in treatments, and masks.
- How likely your hair is to change in the future. While this is also linked to genetics, some hair types are more prone to breakage and snapping, which can potentially lead to thinning or hair loss.
- The way your hair might react to conditions such as high-heat styling tools, moisture, chlorine, sunlight and chemicals.
As many as 60% to 70% of people have textured hair, which also means the market for specialised products is vast and continues to grow around 20% every year.
However, that also means consumers who are educated about their hair type are better placed to pick products or hair treatments that will be effective, as more and more brands and hair care service providers enter the market.
What Are the Four Categories of Hair Types?
The table below shows you how each type of hair is categorised and what the subcategories we’ve mentioned mean:
| Hair Type | Characteristics |
| Type One: Straight Hair | 1a: Silky, straight hair with no curl pattern that sits flat on the scalp
1b: Very straight hair that can have a soft bend
1c: Straight but slightly coarser, thicker hair with more natural volume |
| Type Two: Wavy Hair | 2a: Grows straight from the follicle but creases towards the end of the shaft
2b: Wavy, looser curls with medium to large waves nearer the scalp
2c: Very wavy hair with small to medium-sized waves that create an S shape |
| Type Three: Curly Hair | 3a: Spirals of larger curls that roll down the follicle from the scalp
3b: Medium curls that can be ringlets or corkscrews
3c: Smaller, tighter, springier curls positioned close together |
| Type Four: Kinky Hair | 4a: Defined S-shaped coils with a firm, springy texture. Each curl has a visible pattern — roughly the width of a crochet needle — and retains moisture better than other Type 4 subtypes. Hair tends to shrink significantly when dry.
4b: Tight Z-shaped bends rather than defined curls, giving hair a fluffy, densely packed appearance. The pattern changes direction sharply at each bend, making it prone to shrinkage of up to 75%. Strands grow in dense clusters.
4c: The tightest coil pattern, often so close together that individual curls are difficult to distinguish. Hair experiences the most shrinkage (up to 90%), feels soft when moisturised but fragile when dry. Highly versatile for styling but requires the most moisture retention. |
How Does Knowing My Hair Type Improve My Hair Care?
Once you’ve established the type of hair you have, you’ll be able to select products or hair growth treatments that you know are suitable for you and can even avoid damage to your hair by understanding how to style it and protect your follicles from damage.
Hair Care for Each Hair Type
Each hair type has different features, and some of the ‘issues’ associated with each are listed below:
- Type 1a hair is flat and often lacks volume because oil travels from the scalp down the follicle faster, making the hair shiny but limp.
- There is a likelihood of frizzing in humid weather for 1c hair, which tends to become quite oily, tangled, and limp.
- 2a hair is fine and thin, soaks up moisture quickly, and can get oily, although it is usually easy to style.
- People with 2b hair find that the coarser strands can become dry and tangled, or very frizzy when the air has high moisture content.
- 3a curls are more likely to break as they easily become dry, although they’re less prone to frizz.
- High-density 3b and 3c curls require ample moisturisation to avoid damage.
- All type four hair can become dry and damaged, and the hair fibres mean oil from the scalp doesn’t often reach the ends.
- 4b hair has greater exposure to shrinkage and breakage, whereas 4c hair is the most fragile because of the way the strands are tightly interlocked.
Porosity is important because it tells us how hair absorbs and holds onto moisture. Non-porous hair often looks hydrated and healthier, whereas more porous hair needs nourishment and moisture to look its best.
KSL Clinic advises that ‘Hair types are often overlooked, but they’re actually one of the best ways to protect the quality and thickness of your hair, and pre-empt damage such as tangling, breakage and thinning.
It’s well worth taking the time to evaluate which hair type you have, or speaking with an experienced hair restoration clinician, whether you’re considering hair restoration, want to maintain your natural texture, address damage to your hair, or improve your hair’s thickness.’
Get a cost for your hair transplant
Looking for a consultation regarding the hair transplant cost? Book a free consultation with us today to see what we can do for you.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does hair type affect a hair transplant?
Yes. Hair texture, curl pattern, and thickness all influence the technique used, the density required, and the final result. Curlier hair types, particularly Type 3 and Type 4, can actually provide better visual coverage because each transplanted hair takes up more surface area than a straight strand.
Why Is Curly Hair More Easily Damaged Than Straight Hair?
Twisted follicles have areas on the scalp where the cuticle can lift, which makes damage more likely. Curls are also more delicate and sensitive to styling stress and chemicals, which means extra-strengthening products and gentle hair care are advisable.
Does curly hair give better coverage after a transplant?
Generally, yes. Curly and coily hair creates more volume per graft than straight hair, which means fewer grafts are needed to cover the same area. This can be an advantage for patients with Type 3 and Type 4 hair.
Can people with Type 4 hair have a hair transplant?
Yes, but it requires a surgeon experienced with Afro-textured hair. The curved follicle structure sits differently beneath the scalp, which makes extraction more technically demanding. Choosing a clinic with proven experience in Type 4 hair is essential. See our afro hair transplant before and after photos for more info.
Does hair thickness affect the number of grafts needed?
Yes. Coarser, thicker hair provides more coverage per graft than fine hair, so patients with naturally thick strands may achieve a fuller result with fewer grafts. Your surgeon will factor in hair calibre when planning your procedure.
What Can I Do to Address Limp, Dull Straight Hair?
If you have type one hair and want to add volume, you’ll usually need to look at your hair care routine, boost the health of your scalp, and use volumising products to add a lift at the root.
Does hair type affect a hair transplant?
Yes. Hair texture, curl pattern, and thickness all influence the technique used, the density required, and the final result. Curlier hair types, particularly Type 3 and Type 4, can actually provide better visual coverage because each transplanted hair takes up more surface area than a straight strand.
Can people with Type 4 hair have a hair transplant?
Yes, but it requires a surgeon experienced with Afro-textured hair. The curved follicle structure sits differently beneath the scalp, which makes extraction more technically demanding. Choosing a clinic with proven experience in Type 4 hair is essential. See our afro hair transplant before and after photos for more info.
Why Is Curly Hair More Easily Damaged Than Straight Hair?
Twisted follicles have areas on the scalp where the cuticle can lift, which makes damage more likely. Curls are also more delicate and sensitive to styling stress and chemicals, which means extra-strengthening products and gentle hair care are advisable.
Does hair thickness affect the number of grafts needed?
Yes. Coarser, thicker hair provides more coverage per graft than fine hair, so patients with naturally thick strands may achieve a fuller result with fewer grafts. Your surgeon will factor in hair calibre when planning your procedure.
Does curly hair give better coverage after a transplant?
Generally, yes. Curly and coily hair creates more volume per graft than straight hair, which means fewer grafts are needed to cover the same area. This can be an advantage for patients with Type 3 and Type 4 hair.
What Can I Do to Address Limp, Dull Straight Hair?
If you have type one hair and want to add volume, you’ll usually need to look at your hair care routine, boost the health of your scalp, and use volumising products to add a lift at the root.
